When it comes to skincare, fatty acids play an important role improving skin health and product efficacy. I know, I know, your eyes may already be starting to glaze over, but stick with me here—this is relevant!

As a skincare formulator, I often hear questions like: "Which oils are best for my skin?" "How do I find products that improve acne-prone skin?" "Is olive oil a good moisturizer?"

The answer is, of course, multi-faceted and depends on your skin type and current skin challenges. 

But, much of the answer relies on an understanding of fatty acids, which are found in natural fats and oils, or can be made synthetically. 

Understanding Fatty Acids and Skin Health

Fatty acids are building blocks of lipids, which are necessary for forming the outermost layer of the epidermis (the stratum corneum). The skin’s lipid matrix, consisting of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids, is primarily responsible for its barrier function, helping to retain moisture, maintain elasticity, and protect the skin from external aggressors like pollution and bacteria. When the lipid barrier is disrupted—whether from environmental stress, over-exfoliation, or skin conditions—fatty acids help to replenish, balance and repair it.

Fatty Acids come in two main categories: saturated and unsaturated. 

Saturated fats offer great emollient properties for skin, and are generally the most moisturizing. These types of fatty acids are typically found in thicker oils and butters that are solid at room temperature. They have a heavier, more occlusive feel, making them ideal for creating a protective barrier on the skin's surface to lock in moisture. 

Benefits include: 

• Moisture Retention: These fatty acids form a protective layer on the skin, reducing water loss and keeping skin hydrated.
• Occlusivity: Saturated fats help seal in moisture, which is especially important for people with dry, cracked, or damaged skin.  
• Skin Conditioning: Saturated fats improve skin texture by softening and smoothing the outer layers of the skin.

However, they can feel heavy on the skin, so they are generally best for dry or mature skin types. Those with oily or acne-prone skin may find them greasy and potentially contributed to clogged pores or milia.

Unsaturated fats are typically referred to as “Omegas” because of their chemical structure. They also provide important or essential nutrients for skin health. These fats are liquid at room temperature and easily penetrate the skin. Omegas are essential for maintaining hydration, soothing inflammation, bad bacteria, and promote elasticity, and are great for all skin types, including oily, acne-prone, sensitive, dry and mature skin.

When applied topically they are highly beneficial for improving the skin's texture and function. They:

• Strengthen the skin barrier to improve moisture and smooth 
• Soothing irritated, sensitive and red skin
• Reduce UV-induced damage, including lines and discoloration
• Nourish and protect skin against environmental damage
• Regulate oil production, decreasing dryness or the overproduction of skin sebum

Sources of Fatty Acids and their Unique Topical Impacts 

A huge range of fatty acids can be found in plant oils, which is a key reason they are used in skincare.

Common Saturated Fatty Acids in Skincare and Haircare

Stearic Acid and Palmitic Acid -  These are saturated fatty acids found in ingredients like and butters like cocoa butter and shea butter. They are perfect for dry or chapped skin, forming a protective seal that prevents moisture loss while improving skin texture and smoothness. Stearic acid tends not to clog pores despite its thicker profile. We chose to formulate The Face & Eye One with low levels of these fatty acids to provide lightweight moisturization, without feeling heavy or greasy.

Myristic Acid and Lauric Acid: Commonly found in oils like coconut and palm, these saturated fats have good cleansing and moisturizing properties, and may help other ingredients to penetrate skin more effectively. Myristic acid can also help thicken creams and conditioners. A downside of myristic acid is that it can clog pores, so is less suitable for people with oily or acne-prone skin. Lauric acid is softening for both skin and hair, and provides antimicrobial properties. These two opposing qualities are why coconut oil is a mixed bag for acne prone skin!

Behenic Acid: Behenic acid is a unique saturated fatty acid that’s extremely beneficial for both skin and hair. It has been studied and used traditionally for its wound healing properties, its ability to inhibit scarring and pigmentation, for improving skin elasticity, and  to minimize stretchmarks. It also forms a protective layer that locks in moisture, detangles, and strengthens hair and scalp, making it a great ingredient for hair conditioners and masks.  The best known natural source of behenic acid is pracaxi oil.

Common Unsaturated Fatty Acids in Skincare and Haircare

Alpha-Linolenic Acid (ALA) – Omega 3: ALA, one form of Omega 3 particularly relevant to topical aplllication, is renowned for its anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing benefits.  ALA and linoleic acid combined is what is now popularly referred to as “Vitamin F”. ALA helps reduce redness, calm irritation, and boost the skin's healing process, great for anyone dealing with sensitive or reactive skin. It also strengthens hair follicles and can reduce inflammation, possibly helping to improve scalp health and mitigate against hair thinning. Flax, soybean, pumpkin, strawberry seed, and black currant seed are examples of skincare oils high in ALA.

Punicic acid –Omega 5: Also known as, Omega 5, Punicic acid is primarily found in pomegranate seed oil, which contains up to 80% punicic acid! It’s a potent antioxidant that protects the skin from free radical damage, making it ideal for mature skin. Omega 5 is extremely moisturizing and boosts collagen production, helping to firm and rejuvenate while supporting elasticity and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. We love this nourishing, skin plumping fatty acid. 

Linoleic Acid –Omega 6: This is the most abundant fatty acid found in the epidermis. It is an antioxidant and has been shown to brighten pigmentation. Contrary to popular belief that people with oily or acne prone skin shouldn’t use oils, linoleic acid actually helps regulate sebum production, reducing the chances of clogged pores and breakouts. In fact, research suggests that those who struggle with acne may have lower levels of linoleic acid in their skin. Additionally, linoleic acid actually promotes moisture retention in skin and hair, making it excellent for hair, scalp and all other skin types! Oils like rosehip, passionfruit and black currant seed are very high in linoleic acid, 

Gamma-Linolenic Acid (GLA) – Omega 6: GLA is a rarer form of Omega 6 known for its incredible anti-inflammatory properties, making it a hero for sensitive, eczema-prone, or irritated skin and scalp. GLA is soothing and helps calm redness and inflammation, restoring a healthy skin barrier and reducing flare-ups.   Borage, evening primrose, and black currant seed oil are excellent sources of GLA.

Palmitoleic Acid – Omega 7: One of the rarer Omegas, palmitoleic acid has remarkable regenerative, hydrating and anti-inflammatory properties for the skin. It helps repair the lipid barrier, making it particularly useful for damaged, dry, or sensitive skin. Omega 7 also boosts the skin's ability to heal, making it ideal for anyone with compromised or irritated skin in need of repair. Sea buckthorn berry oil contains the highest known percentage of Omega 7.

Oleic Acid  – Omega 9:  The most common type of Omega 9, oleic acid is one of the more occlusive and moisturizing unsaturated fats, helping to maintain the softness and radiance of skin and hair. It is the primary fatty acid in olive and avocado oils, but is also found in many other plant oils. Oleic acid is beneficial for all skin types and is an excellent hydrator. However, especially for acne-prone or oily skin, oleic acid must be sufficiently balanced with other Omegas to avoid clogged pores or irritation. We do not recommend olive oil in particular as a moisturizer by itself or as a major oil skincare or scalp care, because it has actually been shown to damage the skin barrier. 

How Syll Botanics Products Leverage Fatty Acid Science

Syll Botanics oil serums have been meticulously formulated with a balanced and comprehensive fatty acid profile in mind.

In fact. we formulated our hero facial product, The Face & Eye One, with a rare, complete spectrum of Omegas 3, 5, 6, 7 & 9. Synergistically combined, this special blend of oils delivers moisturization, repair, rejuvenation, and protection:

• Rosehip Seed Oil: High in linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids, perfect for improving skin elasticity, reducing inflammation, fighting acne and minimizing the appearance of scars and hyperpigmentation.
• Jojoba Seed Oil: Although technically a liquid wax ester, jojoba oil is rich in a variety of Omega-9s. Its a composition very similar to skin sebum and helps regulate oil production without clogging pores.
• Pomegranate Seed Oil: Rich in Omega-5 fatty acids, this oil delivers potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits, making it a perfect choice for maintaining skin health and combating signs of aging.
• Sea Buckthorn Fruit Oil: A star ingredient for dry, discolored, irritated or sensitive skin, sea buckthorn oil is rich in Omega-7, which helps regenerate, reduce redness, and promote cellular repair.
• Black Currant Seed Oil: Black currant seed oil is an excellent source of gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), which supports sensitive, dry, and eczema, rosacea or acne prone skin.

The Body & Hair One is another powerhouse oil blend, carefully formulated to nourish both skin and hair. The fatty acids focus on moisture retention, elasticity,  and nourishment of skin, scalp and hair, making it the perfect all-in-one product for minimalist routines:

• Passiflora Edulis (Passionfruit) Seed Oil: Rich in linoleic acid (Omega-6), passionfruit seed oil is lightweight and absorbs quickly, making it ideal for moisturizing and protecting skin, hair and scalp without heaviness. Its anti-oxidant and brightening properties also make it great for soothing irritated skin after sunburn, shaving, or while skin stretches during pregnancy.
• Fragaria Ananassa (Strawberry) Seed Oil: This oil is packed with essential Omega-6 and Omega-3 fatty acids, making it highly nourishing for both skin and hair. It promotes hydration while also helping to protect against environmental stressors.
• Euterpe Oleracea (Açaí Berry) Fruit Oil: Rich in both Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids, açaí berry oil is known for its antioxidant properties, which help protect skin and hair from free radical damage while also moisturizing and repairing.
• Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Oil: As a source of gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), black currant seed oil helps improve moisture retention and reduce inflammation, making it great for soothing eczema prone, dry or itchy skin and scalp.
• Pentaclethra Macroloba (Pracaxi) Seed Oil: One of the key ingredients in this multi-benefit product, pracaxi oil is the best known natural source of behenic acid and is rich in oleic acid, which provides excellent conditioning properties for both skin and hair. It helps to lock in moisture, smooth the hair cuticle, and improve elasticity, making it a multi-functional oil that’s perfect for hydrating skin and taming hair frizz.

Final Thoughts: Finding the Right Oils for Your Skin 

While individual oils each have their place, it’s important to choose oils with a fatty acid profile that matches your skin’s needs. If you have very dry skin, you may benefit from oils high in oleic acid and saturated fats. Oily or acne-prone skin should seek out oils rich in linoleic acid and other anti-inflammatory fatty acids. Mature skin needs a lot of moisturization, while also leveraging fatty acids that help encourage cellular repair and collagen production. Last but not least, sensitive skin types will particularly benefit from gamma-linolenic acid, which is why you'll find this more rare fatty acid in both of our serums. 

Syll Botanics serums have been meticulously formulated to provide an excellent balance of fatty acids for all skin types – making it easier for everyone to find a solution for your skin.

Whether dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, combination or mature, at a fundamental level The Face & Eye One is designed to nourish and balance to help skin feel comfortable and healthy, while brightening tone and encouraging collagen production (wins for everyone!). If you do have very dry skin or mature, you may benefit from an additional day and/or night cream, but others may find this single serum to be sufficiently moisturizing!

The fatty acid composition of The Body & Hair One has been optimized to hydrate and improve the strength and elasticity of skin and hair, while soothing and protecting to promote cellular repair. This is how it is so multi-faceted in its ability to effectively moisturize, soothe and smooth skin, lips and hair, which is what most women need for those areas. Dry, dehydrated, sensitive or mature skin types may even love using it on their face!

If you've gotten this far, we hope that it's clear how the carefully constructed fatty acid profiles of our serums enhances their versatility and efficacy, for a simple yet sophisticated and impactful daily routine.

References: 

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Baumann, L., et al. (2021). Unsaturated fatty acids in skin barrier function and the effects on inflammatory skin conditions. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 134(3). Retrieved from https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0022227520334933

Downing DT, Stewart ME, Wertz PW, Strauss JS. Essential fatty acids and acne. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1986 Feb;14(2 Pt 1):221-5. doi: 10.1016/s0190-9622(86)70025-x. PMID: 2936775.

Danby SG, AlEnezi T, Sultan A, Lavender T, Chittock J, Brown K, Cork MJ. Effect of olive and sunflower seed oil on the adult skin barrier: implications for neonatal skin care. Pediatr Dermatol. 2013 Jan-Feb;30(1):42-50. doi: 10.1111/j.1525-1470.2012.01865.x. Epub 2012 Sep 20. PMID: 22995032.

Linus Pauling Institute, Oregon State University. (2023). Essential Fatty Acids and Skin Health. Micronutrient Information Center. Retrieved from https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/health-disease/skin-health/essential-fatty-acids#delivery

Niculescu, V., Paunescu, V., & Dasanu, C. A. (2021). The role of unsaturated fatty acids in skin barrier function. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 134(3). Retrieved from https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0022227520334933

Zielińska, A., Nowak, I. Abundance of active ingredients in sea-buckthorn oil. Lipids Health Dis 16, 95 (2017). https://doi.org/10.1186/s12944-017-0469-7

Zielińska A, Wójcicki K, Klensporf-Pawlik D, Marzec M, Lucarini M, Durazzo A, Fonseca J, Santini A, Nowak I, Souto EB. Cold-Pressed Pomegranate Seed Oil: Study of Punicic Acid Properties by Coupling of GC/FID and FTIR. Molecules. 2022 Sep 9;27(18):5863. doi: 10.3390/molecules27185863. PMID: 36144599; PMCID: PMC9501365.

Disclaimer: 

PLEASE NOTE THAT THE INFORMATION WE PROVIDE ABOUT SKIN, BODY AND HAIR CARE ON THIS WEBSITE IS SOLELY FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES AND SHOULD NOT BE TAKEN AS MEDICAL ADVICE.  NONE OF OUR PRODUCTS HAVE BEEN EVALUATED BY THE FDA AND ARE NOT INTENDED TO DIAGNOSE, TREAT, CURE OR PREVENT ANY DISEASE. IF YOU HAVE A SPECIFIC MEDICAL CONCERN, PLEASE CONSULT WITH A LICENSED MEDICAL PROFESSIONAL FOR PERSONALIZED CARE.